Judges look into crystal balls

Who'd be a James Halliday or a Huon Hooke? As two of the country's foremost wine writers and show judges, theirs is a gypsy existence of endless comings and goings, punctuated by protracted periods of sipping and spitting.

Recently in the north of the State as judges at the fifth annual Tasmanian Regional Wine Show, the two concluded their assessments of some of the State's top wines with a little of what gypsies are best known for – crystal ball gazing.

The road ahead for the next few years will not be an entirely smooth one, it seems. Nevertheless, the judges' conclusions will warrant close scrutiny from local producers if the Tasmanian industry is to grab greater national prominence as a premium wine-growing area.

In their opinion, of critical importance is the need to attain a better match between some of the State's vineyard sites and the varieties grown there. Singled out for special mention were the varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.

"I really think that in most parts of Tasmania, Cabernet remains a big question mark," said panel chairman James Halliday.

"People have to consider very carefully whether it's worthwhile persevering with Cabernet. Logically, one would expect to see more Merlot, simply because it ripens earlier than Cabernet, and is softer than Cabernet."

On a positive note, both judges were equally quick to acknowledge the State's success with the dry whites of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc – the latter most particularly in light of the outstanding trophy winning success of Dalrymple's 1994 Sauvignon Blanc. It has world-class quality and potential; a wine worthy of comparison with the best from the Old World and from New Zealand.

"I'm surprised you don't see more Sauvignon Blanc here," commented Huon Hooke.

"It's a good variety for Tasmania. There were only two Sauvignons in the show, a whole lot of Chardonnay, and a whole lot of Pinot, which is a little out of balance. I thought that Dalrymple showed you really can make very good Sauvignon Blanc here.'

It was a view shared whole-heartedly by his fellow judge.

"I think Sauvignon Blanc, by rights, definitely should be suited," echoed Halliday.

Reflecting on the extremely high standards of viticulture evident locally, the chairman also acknowledged the State's potential for producing top quality Chardonnay, especially in un-oaked form.

"The quality of the Iron Pot Bay wine, both in quality of fruit and winemaking, shows it is really a very legitimate food style. It's not just a response to economics, but a proper wine. There's no reason at all why un-oaked Chardonnay shouldn't develop wonderful characters in the bottle.

After all, Semillon does."

First published 2 March 1995: The Advocate